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VACUFORMED HEAD BUILD-UP TUTORIAL |
The basic thermal formed head kit consists of: the front shell, the rear shell, horseshoe ring, 2 neckbolts, antenna, 2 eye grills, 2 transluscent eyes, 1 head port. Some kits included the neckring and the pvc neck. |
Trim all the resin pieces on a belt sander and address any seamlines with sandpaper. Set all the pieces aside for now and concentrate on the head shells and the horseshoe ring. Be sure to trim the FACEPLATE as shown (you must leave a lip at the end to allow for proper assembly. Use a pencil to draw in this line and make a center hashmark on the forehead to help you align the horsehoe ring. Adhere the resin horseshoe ring using superglue and spray accelerant. Be sure to test fit this to make sure you know where it aligns left and right. Don't fret if there are gaps in the sides. You will address that in the next step: |
Once your horshoe ring is in place, glue the rear headshell in place using superglue and spray kicker. There may be a few areas that overlap beyond the horsehoe. Trim those areas away with a dremel. Now fill in the gaps with bondo. |
Using the mini drum sanding bit on your dremel, take away the ear covering so the resin neckbolt slots into place. |
Using the same drum sanding bit, carefully remove the rear headport area to allow the resin replacement port to fit in tightly. Glue this into place from the interior. I drilled a hole in this sample to allow for an on/off switch (optional). |
Now it's time to sand down the seamline. I like to add a piece of painters tape along the crown to prevent inadvertantly scratching the plastic surface. Sand down the bondo until you get a nice even finish. Several layers may be needed so be patient. |
Same parts you see at the start, just GOLD PLATED. If you have any components you'd like plated, just contact me at impervium@hotmail.com The first step at this stage is preparing the eyes to accept the eye components and electronics. Dremel out the sockets and trim down the transluscent eye cups so they fit in tightly. |
Feed the LED groups separately through each eye socket. Drill 3 5mm holes into each eyecup and hotglue the LEDs into the underside. Once the glue is cured pop the eyes back into their position and glue in place from the interior. |
After your eye sockets are cleared, you want to attach the pvc neck. Do this by driving 2 wood screws through the bottom-most end of the horseshoe and connecting through the pvc. Hotglue your neckbolts once this is done. |
Be sure to check the LEDs and the on/off switch to make sure everything is working properly and the wires are securely in place (no flickering etc..) The best spot for the on/off switch/button/toggle is the rear headport. Here I am using a toggle, installing it using a piece of epoxie putty from the interior. Allow this to cure overnight before you flip the switch. |
The antenna can be simply glue on, but I prefer a stronger method. Drill a wire into the body of the antenna and then a corresponding hole in the horseshoe. Apply a few dabs of glue, a little accelerant and VOILA! |
updated 10/08 |
The eye grills may need some trimming so take those to a belt sander and trim them down so they fit flush inside the sockets. Use flat black acrylic paint to color the irises and the mouth. Note: you can also cut the mouth out and put in some mesh from the interior. Superglue the grills onto the eyecup iris areas. |
Job WELL DONE!!! Visit the protocol droid gallery for more photos!!! |
Resin-cast version |