WOW!!!
The Head: I cut off the neck piece completely and lined with fairing trim.
For the neck I used a piece of card covered in shiney metallic sticky backed plastic with velcro to attach.
I've attached clips inside the back of the head for the front half of the face to slide into, these hold it in position. I've
also attached PresStuds behind the ear pieces and the side of the face to hold it on when moving about.
Inside the face I've had LED's embedded within resin to create the eyes, these just slot into the eye holes. I've painted the
backs black to stop light coming through and obstructing my vision.
I've placed a small amount of plastic mesh over the mouth piece and glued in a microphone.

For the body I made up the whole thing as one, sanded and finished including neck and arm rings. I only added a small part of
the resin ring piece (pardon the phrase) for the front and completely left the back as is. After finishing I then (reluctantly) cut
through the whole thing!! Slicing clean through the middle. I hinged the top and bottom of the arm piece and stuck with epoxy
resin. Obviously this needs sticking really well!! Mine's holding up very well and hasn't come apart yet. I've then used hooks
and eyes to close, one each side of the neck, top and bottom of the other arm and one on each side of the body. I've since
inserted dowels into the arm ring resin and drilled holes on the opposite site for them to slot into when the body is closed up.
This stops the two sides moving up and down independently and causing the hooks to come undone.

I've added foam around the arms to protect the bicep sections of the arms when wearing.

I've also stuck a small strip of plastic to the top of the neck pistons, purely because they kept getting knocked by my helpers
and coming off.


This piece I made up as one again and wear it like a pair of shorts. I've hot glued a pair of braces in to keep
it up. These go over the mid section so I've stuck a few wires to them to hide them. Be careful when trimming
this down, you need to leave enough to give you freedom to walk but not leave an unsightly gap.
For the arm I made up the two pieces that create the forearm and bicep . I placed them together and worked out the best
place to join them where they pivot. Hold them together and try to bend them in position before you drill the hole, this
required a few attempts and a little trimming to get right before they actually moved smoothly through 90 degrees. Be sure
there's enough space for the arm piston when arm is bent through 90 degrees, remember the arm plate on the end of the
forearm is at its highest point half way through the bend. When happy, I drilled the hole and fitted a plastic screw and bolt
which I didn't tighten up too much but superglued to allow movement. I only did this on the top side of the arms, if you drill
both sides it restricts movement too much, do only one side and there's a bit of give when wearing.

I've fitted foam on the end of the forearm plate to avoid scratching when arm is straight.

The inner arm pistons I used hot melt glue sticks instead of dowelling, this allows give when the arms are fully bent. The
shoulders attach to the velcro hinges on the body and are lined with fairing trim to finish and avoid scratching the arms.


The hands & fingers I trimmed down quite a lot as I wanted to be able to pick things up etc with my fingers. These are
just hot glued to a pair of skin tight material gloves. The finger ends were dremelled out and glued on while I had the
glove on.
I've added an elastic loop to the hand casing to keep it in place when wearing. This just slides over the fingers.
Note the hand pistons are screwed on because they just get pulled off by kids!

This is page 1 of 2 detailing, in Andy's own words, how he developed a wearable suit
from my robot parts.
IMPERIAL CHOPPER
DIRECTOR'S CUT 2008